Over the years, Peter Gordon (co-owner/executive chef at The Providores Restaurant and Tapa Room on Marylebone High Street) has had many protégés and co-workers. These fortunate and gifted individuals, who have cut their culinary teeth and grafted hard alongside a true master, have then gone on to spread their wings and achieve their own success. Two ‘high profile’ chefs who immediately spring to mind include Anna Hansen of The Modern Pantry and Miles Kirby of Caravan (both in London), amongst others.
As I have mentioned many times before, the people ‘behind the scenes’ are the unsung heroes. For me, the person at The Providores who entirely epitomises this role is Cristian Hossack (a.k.a “Crisso”). He is a very talented chef and a real culinary magician. However, he is a very humble chap, who has modestly shunned the limelight due to his down-to-earth nature and personality. What he lacks in typical arrogant ‘cheffy’ ego, he certainly makes up for in his honest, confident and flavoursome cooking. He has been at the restaurant for more than six years in total. In 2009, he took over the Head Chef’s position from Miles Kirby (who set up Caravan in Exmouth Market, London).
Cristian Hossack
In addition, I am very grateful that Crisso has very kindly contributed a recipe from his extensive repertoire towards my self-published book “An Epicurean Odyssey: A Road Trip Around New Zealand”. As you may see by the enormous quantity of ingredients and different technical elements and cooking processes, it is quite a challenging dish to make. But in the end, to make all that effort is really worth it, as this intricate recipe is utterly delicious, especially with the wine pairing. I hope you enjoy it! I have become a big fan of The Providores over the years and have dined there many times, especially when they hosted their successful monthly wine dinners. I have included many mouth-watering anecdotes, recipes and wine pairings in my book!
Recently, I popped into the ground-floor and more informal Tapa Room – it’s one of my local haunts to get my regular flat white fix and I had a chinwag with Mel Ellis and Crisso. He very kindly accepted me to ‘interview’ him.
At what age and how did you first get into cooking?
CH – “I come from a small town in New Zealand called Marton in the Rangitikei region, two hours north of Wellington, close to Wanganui. I began cooking at 23ish, I was tricked into it. I was working in a café called “George Street Deli” in Palmerston North and slowly my shifts started swaying from the coffee machine to the kitchen. When I was 24 I decided to get some qualifications in cookery till I decided what I wanted to do. That was 13 years ago.”
Who/what inspired you to be a chef?
CH – “Initially it was the owner of the cafe, a woman called Mary Earnshaw.”
How much of an influence on your career has Peter Gordon and working at Providores been?
CH – “Peter has been a huge influence on me and I feel privileged to be in a line of many great chefs who also have been directly influenced by him.”
What is the best thing about working at Providores?
CH – “Freedom to try things. From muffins and tarts on the breakfast menu to wine dinners and pop up restaurants. The encouragement to give a new/different idea a good crack is hugely refreshing in this industry.”
Peter Gordon and The Providores is known for its fusion cuisine, but which other cuisines do you particularly enjoy/inspire you?
CH – “It changes all the time. At the moment I am particularly interested in Middle Eastern cuisine. I am enthusiastic about using Middle Eastern ingredients – or rather flavours I would associate with the Middle East – e.g. aubergine, cumin and preserved lemon. They are such bold and punchy flavours, rather like untamed horses! Although I will always have a love of Italian food and ingredients. I think making pasta is one of the most satisfying things you can do.”
Who is your favourite chef?
CH- “I think that would be Christine Manfield.”
If you were posted to a desert island, which ingredient/gadget/product/dish could you not do without?
CH – “My espresso machine!”
Any thoughts on wine? Favourite styles/regions etc?
CH – “I like Chablis and Macon in Burgundy and being a Kiwi I like NZ wines – particularly Pinot Noirs from Central Otago.”
On the subject of wine, how important do you think a sommelier is for the success of a restaurant?
CH – “A sommelier is someone who can lift the meal to an occasion and to ‘integrate’ the food and the wine. A sommelier’s role is to suggest combinations that neither the food nor the wine can do on their own. So a sommelier is important for any restaurant which takes food and wine seriously.”
What are your future plans?
CH – “To travel across Europe with my girlfriend and eat as much as possible. The rest is undecided!”
On that poignant note, I concluded the interview. However, I have some great news for you. Yes, the ‘rumours’ are true and Crisso will be leaving The Providores!
Moreover, before he leaves, it has been decided to host a special one-off “Best of” wine dinner at The Providores in April 2012. The sumptuous six-course menu will feature Cristian Hossack’s ‘signature’ dishes and will be matched with a bespoke New Zealand wine pairing.
For further details and to book a seat at this special dinner, please go to the restaurant’s website.
Please note: an edited version of this article will be featured in the February/March issue of the Marylebone Journal.
The roving sommelier is the facilitator of liquid enjoyment and by sharing my knowledge, passion and experiences, I will be your friendly tour guide on this gastronomic jaunt.
Please note: the eBook version of my book is now available at the Kindle Store too!
A portion of my book sales will be donated towards the New Zealand Earthquake Appeal Fund.
I’m looking forward to hearing about your own food and wine stories and comments.
Follow my tweets and updates on Twitter @rovingsommelier
The epicurean odyssey continues…
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