Few names excite Aussie wine enthusiasts as much as Wendouree an ‘old fashioned’ producer whose association with long lived reds is unmatched. Wendouree’s focus is squarely set on grape growing and winemaking, opposing both assertive marketing and self promotion. This point is personified by their traditional bottles, which still display no back label, no contact details and no internet/website address. A very individualistic and artisanal approach huh?
Altogether Wendouree has 28 acres of vines, all dry grown (un-irrigated), yielding around 50 tons per annum. Ripeness is staggered between different parts of the vineyard, which is an advantage as hand-picking is always employed. Chemicals and herbicides are eschewed, as is turning the ground, saving around the equivalent of one inch of rain in a season. To sum up their personality, Wendouree wines display a ‘signature’ old school style, high minerality, high acidity and wonderful potential for longevity.
I have heard about Wendouree wines, and over the years have become aware of its legendary cult status. In addition, I have never tasted any of their wines. However, recently I was given the opportunity, when I was invited by Find Wine UK to taste a line up of 14 wines. Yes, I said 14! It would be very silly to refuse?
The Wendouree ‘story’ started way back in 1893 when the vineyard was establsihed by Alfred Percy Birks. Its location is towards the northern end of the Clare Valley in South Australia and is one of the oldest operational wineries in Australia. Much of the original vineyard, winery and even some of the original winemaking equipment are still in service.
The soils are red-brown chocolatey loams over limestone, allowing excellent drainage. The climate is essentially continental with hot summers and cool winters. The vineyard has very old un-irrigated plantings of Shiraz, Malbec, Mourvedre and Cabernet Sauvignon, many of them untrellised bush vines 100 years old.
In 1974, Lita and Tom Brady assumed the management of Wendouree and over the ensuing years transformed it into one of Australia’s truly ‘iconic’ wines.
Wendouree wines I tasted were: 1989 Shiraz Mataro; 2002 Shiraz Mataro; 1999 Shiraz Malbec (Not available); 2000 Shiraz Malbec; 2001 Shiraz Malbec; 1990 Cabernet Malbec; 1998 Cabernet Malbec; 1999 Cabernet Malbec; 2002 Cabernet Malbec; 1997 Shiraz; 1999 Shiraz; 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon; 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon; 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon; 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
So in total, this was a selection of 14 Wendouree wines, which apparently is the largest selection put together in the Northern Hemisphere. My tasting notes will follow later on a separate blog article. Needless to say, I left the tasting with seriously black teeth!
I met up with Jamie Goode of The Wine Anorak and made the following video blog and interview on my You Tube channel. I hope you enjoy it and look forward to your comments.
httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=084BfxyDkVk
The epicurean odyssey continues…
Really interesting – thanks for sharing. Amazing that much of the 19th century equipment is still in service. You’ve got a really good rapport with Jamie too going by the video.
Thanks for your comment
one can argue that it can go both ways
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